Welcome to my Frequently Asked Questions section. This is the page where I post all the questions I receive in my eBay shop, regarding Full Spectrum, Astrophotography and Infrared camera conversions. I’m happy to answer any question related to camera modifications, filters to use depending on your requirements, lenses, photography techniques or even talk about your favourite photography spot!
I do hope you find this helpful. Feel free to make comments and suggestions.
Q.
Good morning, thanks for the prompt delivery of the camera. I already have the standard 550d and a load of lenses and filters etc, I’m just wondering to get the full potential from the adapted camera what filters should I be using and what setting is best? I normalise the camera on manual. And advice or assistance you could offer would be great.
A.
Hi!
Canon 550D is my personal favourite as well! I’m still using a converted one for astrophotography and most of the photos on my website greeksky.gr are with it.
There are lens filters and clip filters. Lens filters as you know, attach to the front of the lens.
Clip filters attach to the camera body, behind the lens. DSLR filters for astrophotography tend to be clip filters. Just be aware that some lenses are incompatible with clip filters.
Regarding which are the best, it depends on what you want to do. A full-spectrum converted camera is suitable for Infrared photography (IR), astrophotography and UV. Infrared filters are not really expensive. Hoya Infrared R72 is a really good one and it costs around £40. There are many others for IR, around £15 giving decent results. (The Infrared photo in this listing was taken with a £10 filter).
Astrophotography and UV filters are expensive, ranging from around £100 to £300. (Recommended seller for UV: Kolari Vision. Recommended sellers for astrophotography filters: Astronomik, Optolong, Svbony).
My suggestion is, to start with what YOU want to do. You see some pictures that you really like and then you start searching for the lenses/filters you need.
I specialise in astrophotography. Even within this niche, there are specific things to consider. For example, if you like these nice black and white astrophotos that show tremendous texture and detail, you should go for an H-alpha filter (for example, astronomik Ha 12nm ccd eos clip). If you like colour, you go for a broadband filter (for example Optolong L-Pro which delivers excellent star colours in astrophotos or SkyTech CLS-CCD for more light-polluted areas). You can even combine Ha with a colour filter, producing HaRGB images!
The clip filter I include as a gift is suitable for wide-field constellation astrophotography but for emission nebulae, I personally use Optolong L-Pro.
Most importantly, have fun shooting!
Q.
OK, Chris, I am after a camera that can take good quality night sky pictures (stars, nebulaes etc). Is this suitable? Also is it ready to use?
A.
There are two kinds of cameras for shooting the night sky:
1) CCDs
2) DSLRs (like the one I’m selling).
CCDs are better for deep sky, so only stars, nebulae, galaxies…
DSLRs are more flexible. You can shoot landscapes as well and/or combine landscapes with stars. Also IR/UV photography, or just ‘regular’ day photos.
Regarding quality, it depends on how far you want to go. Canon 550D is an old model but a good camera. The Milky Way photo I have in the listing is taken with this camera, a £50 lens (50mm) and a cheap UV/IR cut filter on a small equatorial mount. If this looks good to you then this camera will do the job. 🙂
You can shoot with a normal/unmodified camera but you will lose most of the nice red nebulae colours.
The absolute best DSLR for astrophotography is Canon 6D. Full frame, bigger and more expensive. I’m about to start modifying those in the near future.
For more detailed info you can google and find a video: “Tony Hallas: DSLR Astrophotography“. Tony is the father of astrophotography! He gives some really nice explanations regarding equipment, shooting and post-process.
My best advice is to start with the pictures you like.
If you like nightscapes and you are on a budget go for the Canon 550D.
If you like nightscapes and you are willing to spend more, go for the Canon 6D.
If you like nightscapes and/or wide field star photos (constellations/Milky Way go for any of the above DSLRs and a couple of lenses.
If you like distant galaxy photos (M51, M33 etc) go for a CCD and an APO refractor telescope (and a big equatorial mount).
Regarding “if the camera is ready to use”. It is, but also a filter will help (I suggest a UV/IR cut clip filter) and a lens and/or a telescope. You can start with any Canon lens you have but some are better than others for astro.
You cannot go wrong with any of the above! In any case, have fun! This is a really rewarding hobby.
Q.
Is there a way to know the shutter count in my Canon camera?
A.
Canon 550D doesn’t provide this out of the box. I have installed a 3rd party software (Magic Lantern) to get this information. It provides a few handy functions but it is not supported by Canon and there is a (small) possibility that if used incorrectly can damage the camera. It is recommended to uninstall after fetching the shutter count.
Update 21/06/2023:
Another way to get the shutter count in Canon cameras is via an app in your computer.
“Canon EOS DIGITAL Info” app provides shutter count and camera/lens related info.
“Astrophotography Tool” (APT), also provides shutter count (among many other functions related to astrophotography).
Q.
Hi – are you in the UK or are you selling to the UK from the US with taxes and duties to be added? Do you sell the filters necessary for astro and infrared/UV photography and whatever is needed to mount them?
A.
Hi! I’m selling from Reading, UK. Every couple of days, I’m crossing Reading Bridge to go to ALDI for groceries.
🙂
You are only paying for the camera. Post is free.
Regarding filters, I’m making my own astro-filters but at the moment I’m not selling them as I’m in the process of improving the product.
I have tested a number of filters for this particular DSLR. Most probably, the best choice is just a simple UV/IR cut clip filter. Light pollution filters (e.g. Optolong L-enhance/L-Pro etc), tend to cut off too much light.
Q.
I’ve been reading around and this camera seems to be the one to go for as a good first step. What lens would you put on this for Astro?
A.
When it comes to lenses for astro I really like prime ones. Preferably fast lenses around f/2.8 or faster. If you google ‘Lenses for Astrophotography Jerry Lodriguss‘ you will find an article that mentions a few excellent lenses. Another affordable and surprisingly good option is legacy old manual lenses. For example, Carl Zeiss 135mm f/3.5 is a very good £50 lens that produces round stars wide open in an easy for starters and appealing focal length. You will also need an equatorial mount for deep sky. At this focal length (135mm), a small one like Star Adventurer is fine.
Q.
Is control over PC supported in Canon 550D camera?
A.
PC control is supported via a number of apps. ‘EOS Utility’ is a free app from Canon you can use for this. I’m also using Astro Photography Tool (APT) as it allows me to control my camera, equatorial mount etc and do a few more advanced things like dithering.
Q.
I have taken some shots with my full spectrum converted Canon 1200D in bright sunlight using the Hoya 72 filter and Canon L 24 70 lens but i can’t seem to get an image that is sharp. The images are ok but not as sharp as perhaps they might normally be.
I have tried increasing the shutter speed to freeze the frame and also tried to focus without the filter and then add the filter but it doesn’t get any better. I have also tried adjusting the aperture but no luck.
I just wondered if this is to be expected following the conversion or am I just expecting too much from the camera?
A.
I used to have this lens years ago and I returned it as I wasn’t happy with the sharpness (!). This lens produces fantastic colours but I remember that I couldn’t get a sharp shot. From the camera side, this is similar to the 550d I was using for years shooting publication-quality pictures with lenses like the 100mm macro or the 70-200 f/4. From the conversion side, removing the filters should result in slightly sharper photos as one of the filters removed (the piezoelectric) is actually a blurring filter to reduce the moire effect.
You could try to test it using a different lens and/or using a tripod and/or shoot using mirror lock up.
The camera is already re-calibrated for autofocus via the Viewfinder but you could also try to focus via the Live View as this is the recommended way in modified cameras.
Q.
I would like to go ahead and have my camera converted, mainly for infrared photography. Would you please elaborate on Full Spectrum conversion? Recommended filter for IR?
A.
Full Spectrum, Bare Sensor Modification:
Both filters (LPF1 and LPF2) are removed, leaving the sensor bare, without filters or clear glasses added. Autofocus is maintained by adjusting the sensor position. In this case, you need an external IR filter, either clip or lens filter such as the Hoya R72.
I’m a keen supporter of this kind of modification because it is the most flexible. If you decide to use a different IR filter and/or try something else (astrophotography or UV or even switch to normal daylight photography), all these are possible with the appropriate filter.
For IR shooting, Black & White rendition 720nm filters are the classic ones and Hoya R72 is an excellent choice. I have clip filters for Canon cameras (Hoya R72 glass) available here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185913326410
Q.
I’m interested in Astrophotography camera conversion.
Can you send an eBay link to an adapter (t-adapter?) that will attach the DSLR to my Celestron C8 circa 2007 which has a f/6.3 focal reducer?
I am experienced at using a QHY183c – have the auto guider and AVX.
Can you suggest a Canon (or Nikon) camera that is at a medium price point that will give good performance? Can these Canons perform at temps less than 32 degrees?
A.
Hi!
This is the T ring adapter, compatible with all Canon EOS cameras:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324917421375
With the above adapter, you connect your Canon camera to your focal reducer.
I mainly convert older DSLR cameras as they are good value. For example, if you compare Canon 600D and 750D, there is no significant difference in image quality. You need to move up to R series to see a real difference (at a much higher price).
My camera suggestion depends on your expectations and what you consider a medium price point. A few suggestions:
– Canon 550D: Comparable image quality with cameras nearly a decade newer. Nowadays you can find them for around £100.
– Canon 600D. Same as 550D with a flip screen (really useful for astro).
– Canon 60D. Same as 600D and also with a weather shield.
– Canon 6D is my preferred one. Although you should expect significant vignetting with your C8 scope as it is a Full Frame camera.
– Nikon D5300. A very good camera. Better image quality and low light ISO compared to all Canons above (except 6D). You need to be careful with Nikons as older models may not be controllable via PC for astro.
Regarding temperature, in theory, in most DSLR cameras the minimum temperature to operate is 32°F. In practice, I have used a range of DSLR cameras in all-night astro sessions, up to 23°F and haven’t experienced any issues (colder than that is too cold for me!). In any case, a weather shield camera is a good idea.
Q.
Hello
I have a Nikon d5500 it has a full spectrum conversion, my question is could you do an Astro conversion on it?
The camera works but won’t focus at infinity.
A.
Hi!
Sure, I can do it. I assume this is a bare sensor modification (nothing in front of the sensor). In some cameras, you can get away with this while still having the infinity focus, but in others, you need to use a replacement filter.
For astro-conversion, I can install a UV/IR cut filter.
We can do this from the “I convert your camera” service:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185505574524
Q.
Chris, I do have one question. Would I ever need to clean the sensor, since there is no cleaning glass in front of it? I mean to say, sometimes dust will get on the sensor. I’ve used a rocket duster in the past but never get all the specks off it. Do you recommend anything past a rocket duster in that case? Appreciate your insight.
A.
Hi Rob.
In my opinion, the auto-clean feature is next to useless! The rocket duster is more effective.
For manually cleaning the sensor, you need the following:
1) Cleaning swabs (for APS-C, not full frame), like this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133783147346?var=433228091235
2) Eclipse cleaning fluid:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384583443540
3) Not a necessity but I will highly recommend a LED Magnifier Sensor Loupe. This will make it much easier to see the actual debris before removing it:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283280863269
My workflow for cleaning the sensor:
I take a shot in the sky and inspect the photo for spots. If I find any, I set the camera in manual cleaning mode and I try to remove them with the rocket blower. If this fails, I inspect with the Magnifier Loupe. This is the important part. 99% will be harmless specs of dust. 1% could be something that can scratch the glass, like a grain of sand. This will show with the loupe. I have cleaned sensors hundreds of times and I only recall one time removing a spec of sand. What I did was carefully remove it with the tip of my cleaning swab without rubbing it.
In normal cases, you just put 2-3 drops of Eclipse fluid on your swab and clean it with one or perhaps 2 moves (from left to right and perhaps from right to left with the opposite side of the swab). You only use a swab once on the sensor. I tend to keep the used swabs to clean less sensitive things like external filters.
It is easier than it sounds and you can even apply some force/pressure. Sensors are not that sensitive. The actual sensor is protected even when we remove both filters as there is a permanent glass in front of it.